Discover the exclusive selection of Suarez High Jewelry pieces that accompanied the designs of the new Encinar FW24 proposal at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Madrid.
On February 16, Madrid designer Fabio Encinar presented the new FW24 collection of his brand Encinar at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Madrid. A proposal inspired by the fascinating life of the aristocrat, socialite and writer Aline Griffith, Countess of Romanones.
To give an extra point of value and meaning, the Madrid native decided to accompany his looks with an exclusive selection from our High Jewelry collection, thus consolidating once again the close relationship between both brands.
We have spoken with Fabio to tell us all the details about his new collection and the selection of Suarez jewelry that he chose together with Lulu Figueroa Domecq, artist and granddaughter of the countess.
To give life to the designs of your new FW24 collection, you have been inspired by the life of Aline Griffith, Countess of Romanones. In what details of the proposal can you see the inspiration?
The collection begins in black, simple garments, tight jumpsuits and pieces that recreate her spy moment... little by little it takes on color and shapes and ends up exploring volumes, brocades and silks...
There is a mythical photo of Aline with a kind of printed kimono that Lulu was inspired by to make the illustration that was given to each guest at the parade. It is that same piece that is recreated in a yellow brocade in the parade.
But there are many more references such as the black fretwork on the hem and ruffles that are inspired by some of her dresses.
Why did you decide to choose the history of the Spanish-American aristocracy?
Everything was taking shape in the summer, I don't really know how Aline's book came into my hands: the spy who dressed in red... I looked for photos and started reading everything that had been written about her and because of her... Aline's life was exciting, beyond the image of an aristocrat from another era, a North American devoted to Spanish folklore, an undercover spy in the Second World War and a style icon of international society... it is very easy to take a figure , as well as inspiration.
To accompany your designs, you have had an exclusive selection of Suarez jewelry. What connection do you think the world of fashion has with that of jewelry?
Suarez has become an ally for us, a perfect match between my world and his proposal. Her jewelry has accompanied my dresses since I started. We have managed to create a synergy that coexists and speaks the same language...
For me a dress is nothing if it is not well accompanied, something that I always comment with my clients is: I prefer to sacrifice and make something simpler in terms of design and then have it well accompanied by an accessory that elevates it.
It is useless to wear the best jewelry and the best dress if there is no connection and a common universe between them.
“There is no point in wearing the best jewelry and the best dress if there is no connection and a common universe between them.”
Fabio Encinar.
What did you base your choice of jewelry for your show on?
Obviously the initial moodboard and the color palette have been decisive. When you have an inspiration as strong as the universe of the Countess of Romanones, you have to look very carefully at the starting point.
One of the first questions that Lulu Figueroa asked me when starting this path was “and the jewelry?” because for Aline it was something crucial in her aesthetic. Everything revolves around three colors: Blues, pinks and greens. We added neutral pieces to unify everything, which is why the emerald was essential as a starting point, recreating the mythical tiara of the countess. Exceptional specimens of sapphires and rubies also appear in the jewelry because they complement the proposal well and make the main colors magnify.
This is not the first time you have collaborated with Suarez... What connection does Fabio Encinar have with the Spanish jewelry house?
Suarez is tradition, elegance and roots. What I respect and value as basic principles of everything that deserves my admiration.
I don't think the ease of the projects we started together is a coincidence, it is due to the understanding on both sides and the peace of mind that comes from trust between them.
I think my world goes up a notch with Suarez and that Suarez sees in me a good companion for his creations.
“Suarez is tradition, elegance and roots. What I respect and value as basic principles of everything that deserves my admiration.”
Fabio Encinar.
Being a person connected to the world of inspiration and aesthetics, how would you briefly define the universe and the image built around Suarez jewelry?
I think it has the most important thing in a world of creativity: identification, a mark, it is recognizable, respected... and faithful to its own discourse that gives it value.
It demonstrates its origin and exploits the tradition of know-how... it is a value that is only given with the endorsement of years of good work.
Do you consider that jewelry is part of fashion or do you see it as a complementary element?
Are they two universes that shake hands, one depending on the other? a priori no, but they gain a lot from the union. They are two worlds that understand each other and decipher the same objective, it is a dialogue that aims to accompany and seek perfection between the choice of one and the other.
Jewelry and fashion have gone hand in hand all our lives and success lies in knowing how to give space to each part so that they come out stronger.
What do you think Suarez's jewels have contributed to the staging of your collection?
When you think of Aline Griffith you think of icon, the exclusive and unattainable nature of her figure owes a lot to that iconography of perfect aesthetics and the almost inaccessible jewel.
Having access to the Suarez High Jewelry collection is a luxury that I enjoy like when you are a child and they let you choose the toy. It is wonderful to have access to jewels that combine with my world and that have made the discourse of inspiration take on sense and fidelity to the origin...
It has helped him give structure to an inspirational scheme that had jewelry as its central axis in many cases...
“It is wonderful to have access to jewels that combine with my world and that have made the discourse of inspiration take on sense and fidelity to the origin...”
Fabio Encinar.
What does this FW24 proposal include that we have not seen before in Fabio Encinar's imagination?
It is an evolution, it is the same language that has been seen for several years. A conversation that began a few seasons ago and that repeats elements that mature and reconvert each year... ruffles, volumes, silhouettes. Silhouettes that mature with me and are part of a great collection that evolves throughout each season.
To build this entire imaginary around Aline Griffith, you have had the help of her granddaughter Lulu Figueroa Domecq, what has the process been like and in what way has it helped you to represent in the most faithful the memory of your grandmother?
In the fall we met in Seville at a party and point blank and wearing a tuxedo I told him that I was obsessed with his grandmother's figure, that I wanted to make the next collection inspired by her. I still remember her surprised face, I caught him totally unexpectedly and he started talking to me about her, anecdotes, stories...
After that party we met and she brought me photos, dresses, jewelry... This whole process has also helped me get to know Lulu better.
If you had to choose one of the great stones (diamond, ruby, sapphire or emerald) to represent the nature of your brand and your essence as a designer, which one would it be and why?
Without a doubt the emerald with gardens inside is my favorite gem. I always carry one with me and I am very fond of it. It summarizes my world in a symbol, I feel identified and I see my discourse of purity and roots reflected in something so different.
